The skincare industry has exploded in recent years, with trends like the “10-step skincare routine”, “layering”, and the “skincare smoothie” becoming the norm for many beauty enthusiasts. But are these trends worth following? The short answer is probably not!
Mixing ingredients without proper knowledge of how these ingredients work could inadvertently do more harm than good. It can also lead to frustration if less-than-desired results are seen. And with certain ingredient combinations canceling each other, you effectively waste your time and money.
Remember, Protecting Your Skin Barrier is Key
One of the main aims of any good skincare routine should be a healthy skin barrier function. The outer layer of your skin, or skin barrier is your body’s first defense against external harms. The skin barrier protects against environmental aggressors, locks in moisture, and keeps irritants out. When using conflicting ingredients we compromise this barrier, which can lead to increased sensitivity, redness, dryness, itchiness, and acne.
Let’s dive into which ingredients don’t play well together, and why simplifying your skincare routine can lead to better skin and a fatter wallet!
Ingredient Combinations to Avoid / Understanding Ingredient Interactions
1. Retinol and Benzoyl Peroxide
Both retinol, a form of vitamin A, and benzoyl peroxide are powerful acne-fighting ingredients, but using them together can be too harsh. Retinol can help with cell turnover, while benzoyl peroxide targets bacteria. However, they can cause excessive dryness and irritation and can deactivate one another when used together.
2. Retinol and AHAs/BHAs
AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids are all types of chemical exfoliants. Combining these ingredients within the same skincare routine at the same time or on the same day is not recommended. Using them together can lead to over-exfoliation, causing redness, irritation, and even damage to the skin barrier. Stick to one powerful treatment or use separately and sparingly to avoid these adverse effects.
3. Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid
Salicylic acid (a BHA) and glycolic acid (an AHA) are both effective for exfoliation. However, combining them can lead to over-exfoliation, resulting in irritated, sensitive skin, and damaging its ability to recover. Choose one based on your specific skin concerns.
4. Retinol and Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a challenging ingredient to formulate because it is most effective in an acid pH environment, while retinol requires a more alkaline pH to work best. Therefore, using these ingredients together can prevent either from working optimally. An easy fix is to use both separately and at the times they are intended to ensure maximum efficacy of both. Vitamin C functions best during the daytime while retinol is best applied at night.
5. Oil-based and Water-Based Products
Applying an oil-based product before a water-based one can create a barrier that prevents the water-based product from absorbing into the skin. Use water-based products first to ensure proper absorption and efficacy.
6. Copper Peptides and Vitamin C
Avoid using copper peptides, which are thought to boost collagen and elastin production, with Vitamin C. This is because copper can oxidize ascorbic acid (aka Vitamin C), causing it to break down too rapidly, which results in diminished benefits. In turn, Vitamin C can negatively alter the properties of copper peptides. It’s best to use them in separate routines.
7. Copper Peptides and AHAs
It is thought that using alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid) at the same time as copper peptides could reduce the overall effectiveness of the copper peptides and effectively cancel each other out.
8. Vitamin C and AHAs
Layering Vitamin C and AHAs together can cause skin irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. With Vitamin C being very pH sensitive, mixing with AHAs can substantially diminish its effectiveness. If you must layer, then use Vitamin C in the morning and AHAs at night.
Simplify Your Skincare Routine
At the end of the day, skin can only absorb so much. So rather than piling on products, focus on a few ingredients that work well together and address your specific skin concerns. A simplified routine might include:
- Cleanser
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen
- Targeted Treatment (optional)
- Eye Cream
Takeaway
Overcomplicating your skincare routine can lead to wasted time, money, and even skin issues. By understanding which ingredients cancel each other out and streamlining your regimen, you can achieve healthier, more radiant skin without hassle.
Check out our blog How to Get Glowing Skin During Perimenopause and Menopause
---
NOTE: This blog is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical advice. It should not be relied on as health or personal advice. Always seek the guidance of your doctor or other qualified health professional with any questions you may have regarding your health or a medical condition.